When we left Bunyonyi we stayed for a night at the Edrissa Guesthouse in Kabale, which is another backpacker-style hostel with plenty of charm, as well as some feel-good credentials thanks to its roots in some volunteer projects in the area. There’s a cute tea room with a decent library, a courtyard for sitting in and, best of all, “The Nest”, the cafe area on the roof. Food is good (rolex not too greasy, sweet and sour pork pretty tasty), though you rarely get exactly what you ordered. Wifi is promised, but – and this is a common theme in our travels thus far – it didn’t seem to work on the days we were there.
A slightly damp double room with mosquito net and en suite toilet facilities was 20,000 Ush (about £7).
Next door, the Amagara Cafe came highly recommended by our guidebook. Standards must have slipped since publication – they didn’t have half of the items on the menu, and what they did have was really, really ordinary.
Kabale itself, for what it’s worth, is a fairly non-descript town that sprawls to a surprising degree considering there really isn’t much there. The Hot Loaf bakery serves up damn good chocolate doughnuts and cheese pies; the bar of the Little Ritz in Africa (yes, really) over the bakery served well to watch Rooney spank AC Milan.
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