Lake Bunyonyi in south-west Uganda is one of those places that defies description. I could try, but really there’s no point. It’s beautiful to an extent that few places in the world can be. I’ll just post a pic and be done with it:
It doesn’t really do it justice, but you get the idea.
The lake lies at 1,840m, which means it’s free of bilharzia and is safe for swimming (it’s free of hippos and crocodiles, too). The water is warm and calm – and deep, with local “knowledge” putting it at 6,500ft. I love swimming and have been lucky enough to do it in some nice places around the world, but I don’t think anywhere beats Bunyonyi.
The weather changes pretty quickly though.
Rain rolls in over Lake Bunyonyi
Bunyonyi is one of those places where all the hotels think they are “eco” because they have huts and thatched roofs. Bushara Island seems to have genuine claim – it’s quiet, unspoiled, and the birdlife is incredible. Be prepared to be woken early by a dawn chorus like you’ve never heard before. On the shores of the lake, it’s pretty depressing to find all the resorts fenced off, which means that access to the water for locals is patchy at best. Aside from that, Overland has a beautiful setting and an excellent restaurant (where Cosmos the waiter can give you attentive service African-style, by hovering at your elbow expectantly for hours on end). Crater Bay looks ok too, and was the preferred venue for teachers at our school to watch Premiership football, but a friend who stayed there when she was the only guest found it a bit too secluded for her to feel totally safe. Safaris is currently a building site; there are some ok cottages that are only about 15,000 Ush a night (about £5), but you’re in the shadow of a construction area that probably won’t look all that much better even when it’s finished.
View from Bushara Island
The centre of activity, such as there is one for somewhere that is basically a ribbon of development around the lake, is Rutinda, which is also where boats depart for the islands (including Bushara). The market on Monday and Friday is good fun – lots of sugar cane, pineapple, rice, beans etc, plus clothes and other nick-nacks. On those days the lake suddenly fills with canoes as people transport their produce to sell – it’s great to watch. It’s also easier to get to and from Kabale on market days – a taxi will charge around 3,000Ush. Unfortunately they’ll also try to cram about six passengers into a normal car, with four across the back and two in the front, which can involve someone sitting on the central console. With hindsight, it seemed a stupid risk to take and I don’t think I’d do it again. A boda-boda will be up to 5,000Ush. I’m amazed to find myself recommending a suicide-bike as “the safe option” when I’d previously said I’d rather jump out of a plane. Otherwise just pay extra for your taxi fare and insist they don’t fill up with any more people.
So yes – Lake Bunyonyi is everything it’s cracked up to be. Just a pity we had to leave so soon.
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